What to Include in a Bill of Sale (and How to Fill One Out)
A bill of sale is a short document, but a missing field can make it useless at the DMV or in a dispute. The good news is that every bill of sale, whether for a car, a boat, a firearm, or a couch, is built from the same handful of parts. Here is exactly what goes on one, the extras each item type needs, and how to fill it out so it actually protects you.
The six fields every bill of sale needs
No matter what you are selling, these elements appear on every valid bill of sale:
- The parties. Full legal names and addresses of both the buyer and the seller.
- A description of the item. Enough detail to identify exactly what changed hands (see the item-specific fields below).
- The price. The dollar amount paid, or a statement that the item is a gift if no money changed hands.
- The date of sale. The day ownership actually transferred. This date matters for taxes and for liability.
- An as-is statement. A line confirming the item is sold in its current condition with no warranty.
- Signatures. Both parties sign and date. Some states and some item types also call for a witness or a notary.
The extra fields by item type
On top of the six core fields, each kind of property has identifying details that the DMV or a future buyer will need:
- Vehicles. VIN, year, make, model, body style, color, and the odometer reading at the time of sale. The odometer disclosure is a federal requirement for most vehicles under 20 years old.
- Motorcycles. VIN or engine number, year, make, model, and odometer reading.
- Boats. The hull identification number (HIN), make, model, year, length, and the motor and trailer details if they are included.
- Trailers. VIN if one exists, year, type, weight, and dimensions.
- Firearms. Make, model, caliber, serial number, and barrel length. Some states require the transfer to go through a licensed dealer.
- Personal property. A plain description (brand, model, serial number, condition) detailed enough to identify the specific item.
Why the as-is clause matters
For a private sale, the as-is clause is the seller's main protection. It states that the buyer is accepting the item in its current condition, with no promises about how it will perform. Without it, a buyer who finds a problem afterward has more room to claim the seller owed them a working item. As-is does not cover outright fraud, so a seller still cannot hide a known defect they were asked about, but it does end the assumption of a warranty. For the full picture, see our guide on what selling as-is actually protects you from.
Notarization and witnesses
Most states do not require a bill of sale to be notarized. A few require it for vehicle transfers, and some require a witness signature. Even when it is optional, a notarized signature is worth considering for a high-value sale, because it makes the date and the identities very hard to dispute later. Check whether your state requires it before you sign with our Notarization Checker.
How to fill one out, step by step
- Enter both parties' full legal names and addresses exactly as they appear on their IDs.
- Describe the item completely, including every identifying number (VIN, HIN, serial number).
- Record the odometer reading for a vehicle, and note whether it reflects actual mileage.
- Write the agreed price, or state that the item is a gift.
- Fill in the date of sale.
- Include the as-is statement and any state-required disclosures.
- Both parties sign and date, with a notary or witness if your state requires one.
- Make two copies so the buyer and the seller each keep an original.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Leaving the odometer line blank on a vehicle, which can stall registration.
- Writing $1 or $0 to dodge taxes, when most states tax on fair market value anyway.
- Forgetting the as-is clause and leaving the seller exposed to later complaints.
- Only one party signing, or no one keeping a copy.
- Using a generic blank form that omits a field your state actually requires.