Buying a Non-Running Project Car
Project cars are a great way to get into a vehicle you could not afford at full price, or to build something exactly the way you want it. But a non-running car comes with extra paperwork questions that a running car does not. Here is what to check before you buy and how to protect yourself.
Check the title status first
Non-running cars frequently have complicated title histories:
- Clean title: The car does not run but has never been totaled or branded. Normal title transfer, same as any sale.
- Salvage title: An insurance company declared it a total loss. Can potentially be rebuilt and re-titled as "rebuilt/reconstructed" after passing a state inspection. Permanently lower value.
- Parts-only or junk title: Designated for dismantling. Cannot be re-registered in most states. Only worth buying for parts if your state bars re-registration.
- No title: See our guide on seller has no title for options.
Run the VIN before you visit
Get the VIN from the seller's listing or ask for it before you make the trip. Check it through:
- NICB VinCheck (free) at vincheck.nicb.org: checks for theft and total-loss reports
- NHTSA recalls (free) at nhtsa.gov/recalls
- NMVTIS report (low cost): comprehensive title history from all states
- Carfax or AutoCheck (paid): accident history, ownership count, title brands
A non-running car with a clean VIN history is a very different purchase from one with multiple prior total-loss reports.
Transport: how to get it home
Your options for moving a non-running car:
- Flatbed tow truck: Most reliable, especially for AWD or 4WD vehicles that cannot be safely towed on two wheels.
- Rental trailer: U-Haul and others rent car-hauling trailers. Works for lighter vehicles.
- Dolly tow: Front wheels up, rear wheels rolling. Fine for most FWD vehicles but not AWD/4WD.
- Transport company: For longer distances, an enclosed or open car transport carrier is often worth the cost.
A car on a trailer does not need plates or a transit permit because it is cargo, not being driven.
Inspect what you can
Even without the car running, you can learn a lot:
- VIN location on dash (through windshield) and door jamb sticker must match the title
- Look for frame damage, previous welds, kinks, or misaligned body panels
- Check the floor pans, trunk, and firewall for rust-through or flood damage
- Pull engine codes if the car has power (battery, OBDII scanner)
- Verify all the major components the seller claims are present are actually there
What to put in the bill of sale
A non-running project car benefits from a more detailed bill of sale than a running car, because there is more room for disputes later about what was disclosed and what was included. Document:
- VIN, year, make, model, body style, color
- Odometer reading and disclosure (actual, not actual, or exceeds mechanical limits)
- Title status (clean, salvage, rebuilt, etc.)
- Known non-operational condition ("vehicle currently does not start or run")
- Any missing or removed components included or excluded in the sale
- Sale price and payment method
- As-is language
- Signatures of both parties (notarized if required)
Our vehicle bill of sale includes condition disclosure and as-is fields. State-specific. Use our Notarization Checker to confirm what your state requires.